Balenciaga Spring RTW : A little more of Wang, A little less of Balenciaga

After his debut in February, it was merely a prologue. He felt that it was important to begin correctly, by paying tribute. For this collection, he got his feet wet. I saw some comments on the debate of Balenciaga Spring RTW. Some feels that minis were not a good representation of Balenciaga, some commented that they were sick of the 60s or 70s inspiration. Some hated, Some loved, Some just appreciate the effort by Wang. This collection was about ease. Wang’s concept was about the idea of softness and deflation that you find in Balenciaga. A volume that softens and falls. He did portray his concept well through his pieces.

This collection of S2014RTW by Balenciaga has a sense of Wang’s style in it. Especially the opening pieces – muscle tees, tank and perfecto jackets. They are voices of Wang. Wang took the suit had the ovoid silhouette that is Balenciaga’s signature. It was made from silvery leather twine with wisps of color inserted so that it looked like tweed. I want those suits badly! The silhouettes are clean and neat. I really love the embroidery on the shorts and tops. It was well-designed.

 

I do enjoy looking at the pieces Wang put up for this collection. Wang was experimenting with cuts on the pants which was amazing; high-waist with a tulip-shaped peplum that curved over the hips. I was like WOW.  And also, those prints/patterns tops with prints/pattern bottom look perfect. There is a fashion rule that we should not mixed patterns with patterns but what the heck! Wang did an amazing job to let the patterns match together. It was chic, probably because of the black & white color theme. I really love black & white. You can never go wrong with that! 

 

There were trio of dresses that has ruffles suspended from the corset of the bodies.  There were T-shirt dress with sheer layer at the end of it. It looked clean with the whole white theme. I really like Wang’s minimization. He didn’t have much going on for this collection, only by playing with cuts, experimenting on different fabrics. The flow from mini skirt to midi skirt to high-waist shorts, to tulip high waist pants to ruffles dresses to T-shirt dress. He really tried to blend both worlds into one! Well done, Wang!

source : style.com, theguardian.com 

Top 10 Favorite Fashion Designer

Let me warn you : This is one hard post to post. Firstly, there are many brilliant designers in this world and it is really hard to pick my favorite 10. It is a tough job but the 10 designers are basically chosen due to my personal taste of fashion. What I love to see on runways : when designers played with textile, patterns & texture. It just brings the garment to another level. Prints are brilliant but detailing on the garment is what captivates me the most. To be frank, detailing of a garment is one hard job. I have zero patient and it is really difficult for me to focus on those small details. My attention span is really short I guess. Therefore, I admired those seamstress & tailors that are patient when comes to detailing. Thumbs up to them!

Back to the topic! Ultimately, I came up with my TOP 10 Favorite Fashion Designers. They are not arranged in ranks as each designer are known for their signature style which makes them unique. Let’s begin!

1. COCO CHANEL

” Fashion fades, only style remains the same. “

 Coco Chanel

Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel a.k.a Coco Chanel is one great designer which created timeless designs. She came from a tough childhood but yet, she became one brilliant fashion designer that most designers look up to. If you guys haven’t catch a short film : Once upon a time by Karl Ladgerfield, go catch it! It says how Coco started out her fashion line in the 1920s. She started out doing amazing hats which was popular during that era. After making hats, she had designed a few female clothing and it started out when people asked her about her dress which was made out of an old jersey. Yeah, how cool is that?

Since then, Chanel’s concept of female fashion is all about comfort. She changed the revolution of female fashion during the 1920s. I guess tight corsets and confining garments aren’t her liking so she decided to change by adding elements of men’s wears. Amazing isn’t she? That has create a trend of collarless suits and well-fitted skirt. It is classy and chic. Next iconic design will be little black dress.

Little Black Dress, Coco Chanel

It was introduced as a long-sleeved black dress, made for day in wool while for evening, in crepe, satin or velvet. It has left an impact in the world of fashion. Two words to describe that little black dress : sophisticated and simple. That little black dress has been re-designed and fit for many famous celebrities.  Such a simple concept, it is an ageless design. Chanel is indeed a fashion trend setter.

2. VALENTINO GARAVANI

” I know what woman want. They want to be beautiful. “

– Valentino Garavani

Well, hell yes he knows what woman want. He is one amazing dress designer. Off track : Did you see that amazing gown that he designed for Anne Hathaway? She looks like an angel. I love her acting and her fashion style she always put on the red carpet. She is one fashion icon that many look at during the red carpet as she always look so elegant.

 Anne Hathaway’s Wedding dress, Valentino 

Back to Mr Valentino, he is a man that make woman feel elegant and feminine. I guess it will be every woman’s dream to own one piece of gown he designed. Since young, he had pursue his interest in fashion & after he finished, he became apprentice at Jean Dessès and help out with Guy Laroche before setting up his own label.

What made Valentino stands out? His dress designs. I guess every celebrity wants to have a piece of his design. His dresses are elegant, romantic and dreamy. He focus more on a perfect bias cut on his dresses. This brilliant designer does not only make dresses, he elevates simple clothes like sweaters and blazers. He spent more attention on bows of garments, at the waist or shoulders. I guess this is why every woman that wore his clothes look glamorous! The cut of a garment is important as it does show the quality of the workmanship. Workmanship is very important to Valentino. It can bring out the best or the worst in you. Well, what can I say? Valentino knows how to dress a woman well.

3. JOHN GALLIANO

” I’m an accomplice to help woman get what they want. “

John Galliano

He is a man of experimenting. He studied in St Martins, the school that I dream to get in. He worked with a famous tailor, Tommy  Nutter, in Savile Row and he experimented bias cutting, reviving and refining it.  For his final year project, his collection called ” Les Incroyables ” a brilliant, impeccably produced series  of garments that were based on French Revolutionary  garments in the 1790’s. Every piece of work sold and one was bought by Diana Ross. My oh my!  And there was an order of repeat exact garment of his collection. This was how bad people want to get hold to his collection. It is insane! He was already on the road of success before he trying to get a proper label or some sort.

John Galliano's first collection from 1984

John Galliano, Les Incroyables Collection

What I love about Galliano is basically he is one insane designer. He love layering clothes and basically, every piece of garment he put on the runway are like art works. He is an artist. His collection are usually historical influenced designs laced with a contemporary edge. He was having difficult with finance of his label so he went to Paris where he met Andre Leon Talley.  Andre helped him and Galliano managed to get his collection financed by companies. Finally, he was appointed in Givenchy, the first British designer to head a French Couture House. However, Galliano took over Dior. You should go check out his first couture collection for Dior! It is fascinating and spectacular.

He is a designer which balance fantasy and classicism well. He loves to research on history for ideas of his collection. His interpretation is one-of-a-kind, with defined sense of theatrical. His garments have a sense of romance and whimsical charm. He craft his garment to have a perfect cut. He is one pure sublime genius. You should watch his 2010/2011 Dior Fall/Winter Collection. That was the one of the best collection I have seen from him.

But he is a daredevil. In 2011, he made an anti-Semitic remarks towards people in Paris bar. I didn’t know why he had to do that. Due to that, he was dismissed by Givenchy from his creative director role. But I saw news that he won the case and Dior had to compensate him with tons of money ( It is really a huge amount of money ). But at least now, he can concentrate well, working in Oscar de la Renta’s studio. Hopefully, he will make a comeback in the world of fashion after his sacking nearly 2 years ago.

Side Track : I saw Dior’s First Couture Collection without John Galliano ( 2011 ). It was all over the place. There wasn’t any flow in the collection. The collection were ranged from vibrant colored to very sparkly to extreme ruffling. There was no definite theme. It was sketchy. I feel like they were trying too hard to bring out the John Galliano in that collection. It didn’t work.

4. Vivienne Westwood

” You have a much better life if  you wear impressive clothes. “

– Vivienne Westwood

This beautiful ginger lady is the queen of punk. She is an English Fashion designer, largely responsible for modern punk. She did not focus on youth and street culture but also tradition and technique. She has her same inspiration like John Galliano. She worked with historical factors by taking from 17th-18th century original cutting principles and modernizing them. I guess if both designer work together, they will come out with one great collection with the touch of romanticism and theatrical.

Anyways, she had her downs when she gave a fashion show in Paris. The collection was called ” Punkature “. However, Parisiennes were horrified by the riotous behaviour and punky London garments. Therefore, she had her shop closed but her talent didn’t stop. She opened a studio in London’s Camden area. Since then, she had been creating many different collection which drew many attention to her. One will be when she launched her ” mini-crini ” a very short crinoline design, which took a big hit.

Mini-Crini, Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood is one respectable woman I look up to. She had been criticized but she stick to what she believes in, herself. She didn’t give up and change but make people love her the way she is. Her design is refreshing and uncommon. Her clothes are revolutionary. She don’t follow the conventional fashion direction but follows her own way. One great woman that many designer looks up to. Kudos to her!

5. Alexander Mcqueen

” I never look at other people’s work. My mind has to be completely focused on my own illusions. “

– Alexander Mcqueen

Mcqueen is a drop-out kid. Yes, he is but he did not need a cert to show how good he is. He just need people to see it, to believe it. He moved to the theatrical costumiers where he mastered 6 methods of pattern cutting from the melodramatic 16th century to the sharp tailoring which became Mcqueen signature. He didn’t have a lot of money and his mother have to borrow money to let him buy his materials, also helping him to do his sew & dyeing. Before starting his own label, he was approached by Bernard Arnault who owns Givenchy, Dior and Lacroix. At that time, Dior was taken over by Galliano so they need a designer for Givenchy. It took a lot of effort for Bernard to convince Mcqueen to take over Givenchy for Spring/Summer 1997. Less than 10 years in the world of fashion, Mcqueen became one of the most famous and respectable fashion designer in the world. This man has won a lot of awards. What can I say? He is like a rare piece of gemstone.

Alexander Mcqueen 2003 Fall/Winter Collection, Scanners

He has many amazing design. As for an experience & product designer, what I love most about this image is how he put into details of showcasing his kimono in the wind tunnel. Usually, you see fashion models walking the runway and you see the details on the garment. But well, this brilliant man wanted to use the wind tunnel to allow the long kimono to breathe, using another way to showcase the details on the kimono. Is it fascinating? Although the model was having hard time walking, the way the kimono flows was breathtaking.

Using the idea of juxtaposition between contrasting elements; fragility and strength, tradition and modernity. The design he creates make woman feel confidence and strong. That is one main objective he wanted to achieve and he did it! Although he is no longer in this planet, he had create a revolution in the world of fashion. Thank you, Mcqueen. You are one great inspiration. And Sarah Burton is doing one good job for you!

6. Zuhair Murad

” It’s something very emotional when you see your creation on a beautiful American celebrity and the whole world sees your work. “

Zuhair Murad

This incredible designer creates beautiful wedding gowns that I want to get my hands on. He is still new in the fashion world but my oh my, he is one designer you want to keep a lookout for. This man was from Lebanon and he moved to Paris to obtain his degree in Fashion. He went to open his first atelier shop in his hometown which paved a way to his thriving career. He made his first appearance in 1999, at the catwalks of Rome with an stunning collection. The media has declared him to be one of the most promising  young designer in this era due to his unique style and creativity.

Haute Couture Fall Winter 2013/2014, Zuhair Murad

What caught my attention was his Haute Couture Autumn Winter Collection 2013/2014. The details on every piece of garment he put on the runway is amazing. For this collection, he using really light and soft base which allowed him to emphasize on the heavy tone details, letting the garment stand out. I really admire his work. This collection was dreamy, romance and creative. The bias cut and workmanship was impeccable. That wedding gown at the end of the runway was fascinating. It was light, filled with great details and I really love the shape and form of the silhouettes which can be compared to those well renowned couturiers.

Jennifer Lopez is one great big fan of him. She is constantly seen in red carpets, wearing Zuhair Murad’s clothes. She looked stunning! Murad knows how to make a woman feel beautiful.

7. Elie Saab

 ” My personality resembles my designs to a large extent. I’m in sync with myself and I’m transparent, just like my designs. “

 Elie Saab

He came from Lebanon like Zuhair Murad. This man knew what he wanted to do when he was young : To design clothes for woman. He was an impatient man so before he want to start studying about fashion, he opened a workshop to make clothes. He quickly start on wedding gowns and dresses. His garments are mixture of Oriental and Western styles. His signature styles are making garments of rich fabrics, laced, detailed embroidery, crystals and silk threads. That is Saab. People start to recognize his design and soon, he was entering the world of fashion shows. His evening gowns are the best; elegant and feminine.

Haute Couture Fall Winter 2013/2014, Elie Saab

These dresses are dreamy and fascinating. I love the simple cuts but flawless details that made the dresses look elegant. He is man of exquisite details. Playing with different materials like beads, sequins etc and creating dazzling dresses. His collection are always glamorous and sophisticated. He is one designer I really adore.

8.  Jean Paul Gaultier

” I would like to say to people, open your eyes and find beauty where you normally don’t expect it. “

–  Jean Paul Gaultier

This French fashion designer has an unusual designs which are stunningly beautiful. He is one insane daredevil I must say. Gaultier didn’t have any training as a designer. He was talented. At the age of 14, he was sketching out his fashion ideas on paper. He continued for quite some time before he start sending out his designs to famous stylist. Pierre Cardin was impressed with his talent and decided to take him as an assistant. I wish I was in his shoes.

A reputation design made by Jean Paul Gaultier for Madonna

Many of Gaultier’s collection are usually inspired by the street wear. As for haute couture collection, there is always this playful fun but yet, formal side to it. He is filled with his fantasy. No one can expect what he is going to put on the runway. That made him different from other designers. He using classic point by deforming, stamping but retain the classic shape of the garment. For some of his exhibition, this man create an impact by using unconventional models. It had gain his popularity but also, criticism. This man has his vision and sticks to it till the end.

9. Alexander Wang

” No one is going to understand your brand better than you. “

– Alexander Wang

This Chinese-American designer is a man who knows how to dress a woman in style. He has been to Parson School Of Design and took many internship. Wang didn’t get the luxury to go to exotic countries to find inspiration but stick to somewhere he is familiar with, Home. He mainly take his inspiration by sitting in subway or seeing something random or something totally out of the context. I love his flawless cuts on garments where it is fitting and makes woman feel beautiful. His garment has the touch of luxury, formal and clean. His collection is the one you want or must have in your closet.

New York Fashion Week 2012/2013, Alexander Wang

Those shoes are too die for. This man had taken gladiator look to a whole new level, minimal level. It is clean and chic. I love the cuts and the silhouette of the clothes. It is futuristic I must say. The clothes were rocking on the runway. I can’t keep my eyes off the cut-out. It is perfect. Simple and clean. That is Alexander Wang.

10. Oscar de la Renta

” Fashion is about dressing according to what’s fashionable. Style is more about being yourself. “

–  Oscar de la Renta

This man is the dressmaker. He is the legend of beautiful, elegant dress. During the sixties, he was known to be the designer of extravagant, opulent but yet, tasteful clothes. He had created a variety of collection based on abstract art prints, exotic dresses etc. His tradition style of dress is a deep V-neckline and close-fitting waist. He also loves to play with ruffles on his dresses and it looks graceful I must say. I always find too much ruffle is a boo but he made it look so elegant.

One of Oscar de la Renta’s wedding gown

How can you say no to this beautiful gown? I love his embroidery on this gown. Many of the Hollywood Stars are a big fan of him as he does one of the best red carpet look. He also plays with ornate beading and embellishment on his clothes and his clothes always look so classy and ravishing. His clothes always look so well-refined. I can’t get my eyes of his dresses. His dresses are too die for. Although he has retired, he is a great man to be remember!

Well, I listed my top 10 favorite fashion designers! What about yours? Comment and share your thoughts with me!

source : http://www.fashionmodeldirectory.com ( information of the designer )
             : https://www.google.com.sg/imghp?hl=en&tab=wi ( google images )